PITCH COAL-FIRE PIZZERIA, 5021 Underwood Ave.

Godfather's Pizza founder Willy Theisen returns with a mix of old-school flavor and industrial design at this cosmopolitan new pizzeria in the former Dundee Dinner Theatre. It's bustling and noisy, and some aspects require explanation (like the communal dining areas where you might be seated with folks you don't know). But the delicious thin-crust coal-fired pizzas — and the company — can make it worth your while.

Hours:<.b> 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. (Bar is open later.)

Information: 590-2625 and www.pitchpizzeria.com.

Prices: $10 to $20 per person.

Mom scoop: There's no kid's menu, no reservations and no good place to wait with children for a table. But nearly everything's made for sharing, it's loud enough for tots and, hey, what kid doesn't like pizza?

Read Nichole Aksamit's full dining reviews and restaurant news every Friday in the World-Herald Living section.